Friday, November 11, 2011

The Treats Truck Baking Book

Cookies Brownies & Goodies Galore, by Kim Ima

BLOG ENTRY by Mandy Jones


As a culinary instructor, I'm constantly looking for new and yummy recipes to share in class. Also, as a mom & home baker, I like simple and fun recipes that I can make with my boys in our own kitchen.  When I got The Treats Truck Baking Book I knew right away it would serve both purposes.  After a quick flip through, my eyes were immediately drawn to the colorful pages and retro design.  I felt a sense of nostalgia seeing the cute drawings of candies and desserts I made during my childhood.  Each recipe is simple enough that even the novice baker will surely master the treat on their first try!  Advanced bakers, like myself, can easily see the charm in its simplicity, as it reminds me of the days when I first began to bake.

I tested a few recipes, all of which turned out quite tasty.   My favorite were the Raspberry Brownies on page 44.   The base brownie came with options: 'chewy,' 'cakey,' or 'dark chocolatey.'  From there you can modify with additional options. I chose chewy because I like my brownies more dense.   However, with a splash of some raspberry jam, the consistency balanced out perfectly.   I decided to cut the brownies from the pan with cookie cutters and share (what was left) with a few friends and, needless to say, they were a big hit!





To tickle your taste buds, check out this sampling of recipes from the Treats Truck Baking Book.  They are sure to leave you wanting more.  My recommendation is to ask Santa to leave this adorable cookbook in your stocking this year!








Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Goat Cheese Cannelloni with Morels and Truffles, by Patricia Wells

When asked by Morrow Cookbooks (Harper Collins) to blog about another Patricia Wells cookbook, I was all for it. Then I realized the title- Simply Truffles. Uh oh... to test a few recipes is going to cost a small fortune and I wasn't sure I could easily find truffles here in Columbus - even from our beloved North Market.  I own (and liberally use) truffle salt and truffle oil (NOTE: be sure to buy the real oil & not the 'manufactured essence'.), but have never ventured to purchase truffles proper. Having had a great time blogging earlier this year for Patricia's Salad As A Meal cookbook, I felt I should give this a go. If I can't buy truffles directly from a store, the back up plan is to find a chef here in town who might sell a bit of the 'black diamond' to a desperate truffle junkie. 
I knew back in April this book was in production and figured it would be a wonderful read. It is. I have raved in past posts about Patrica Wells's exceptional narrative and ability to make you feel as if she invited you to dinner; creating these recipes just for you. This book is no different. She writes about the folklore and pursuit of truffles and, as usual, offers wine pairings for each recipe. I also appreciate how she takes the intimidation out of  recipes that seem unapproachable- which, to some people's minds is French cuisine in general.
Let me just say up front that nearly every recipe in this book stands alone. If you can't afford or find truffles, you can replace them with just about any nutty, meaty mushroom- like porcini (I'd suggest skipping the button family because the objective is to infuse into the dishes the earthiness of truffles)... While this recommendation might undermine the whole point of her cookbook, I think it's important to remember a recipe is more than just one ingredient. These recipes seem to have versatility and flexibility even beyond replacing the truffles.

Granted, this suggestion might not work so well with the simple "truffle salt" recipe, but the Goat Cheese Cannelloni with Morels and Truffles gives us a bit of wiggle room... well, sorta.
Pasta and mushrooms. Simple. Right?  This homey, cheesy, comforting recipe caught my eye immediately. Of course, the fundamental ingredients call for pungent, garlicky  truffles and yet another popular Provencal fungus- morels. Interestingly, morels are competitively hunted here in Ohio. These hard-to-come-by 'shrooms- dubbed the "truffle of Ohio"- are in season during spring's rainy months and require keen knowledge to pick them out from under dead deciduous trees. But once you get your hands on a few, make this dish! 

(Tim Lessner-- Come April, I am kidnapping you to go morel hunting). 

Don't let this recipe scare you. Though it is long, it is not as daunting as it seems. In fact, it's fairly simple once you read through and prep all of your ingredients. This is a dish that can be prepared in advance of dinner and quickly heated when it comes time to eat. Pair the cannelloni with a crisp, acidic, mushroom-friendly white wine, like a white Rhone. Simply Trufflicious...

Goat Cheese Cannelloni with Morels and Truffles


EQUIPMENT:
Dampened cheesecloth; 10-quart pasta pot fitted with colander; four 6-inch gratin dishes; baking sheet


RECIPE:
6 oz. fresh goat cheese
2 large ultra fresh eggs, room temperature, lightly beaten
grated zest of two lemons
fine sea salt
1 1/2 oz. dried morels
12 inch square sheet of fresh pasta
1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/2 cup truffle & morel cream sauce (See recipe below)
1 fresh black truffle- about 1 oz. - cleaned 


1. Place cheese on a large plate. Cover it with eggs & lemon zest. Mash with a fork until the mixture has thick, smooth consistency. Taste for seasoning. Prepare up to 4 hours in advance & refrigerate.


2. Place the morels in a colander and rinse well undercold running water to rid of any grit. Transfer them to a heat proof bowl or measuring cup. Pour 2 cups of the hottest possible tap water. Let soak for 20 minutes to plump up.


3. Arrange rack in center of the oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 


4. Carefully remove mushrooms from water with slotted spoon leaving behind any grit in the liquid.


5. Place dampened cheesecloth in colander set over large bowl. Carefully spoon the morel soaking liquid into the colander, leaving behind any grit in the bottom of the bowl/measuring cup. This liquid is used to prepare the morel truffle sauce.


6. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Arrange three kitchen towels on the counter, for draining the pasta.


7. Cut the sheet of pasta into 16 3-inch squares.


8. Fill pasta pot with 8 quarts of water and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Add coarse sea salt. Drop in as many pasta squares as will comfortably float in the water. Cook for about 30 seconds, removing square with a slotted spoon while still very al dente. Transfer them to the ice water. Once all are cooked and into the ice water, give the pasta squares a swish around and remove them to the towels, arranging them in a single layer.


9. Place gratin dishes side by side on the baking sheet.


10. Lift a square of pasta off the towel and turn it over. This ensures the pasta will not stick tot he towel while making the cannelloni. With a small spoon, spread about 2 teaspoons of the goat cheese mixture evenly along a third of the pasta square. **Do not fill all the way to the edges for fear of leaking**. Carefully roll the square into a cylinder- jelly-roll fashion. Place the cannelloni in the gratin dish, seam side down. Repeat until you have four rolled cannelloni side-by-side in each gratin dish.  Sprinkle with grated cheese.


11. Cover each gratin dish securely with foil to prevent pasta from drying out while cooking. Place the baking sheet with all four gratin dishes into the oven and cook about 20 minutes- or until the cannelloni are bubbling.


12. While the pasta cooks, prepare the truffle. With a vegetable peeler, peel the truffle. Mince the truffle peelings for another use, Cut the truffle into thick slices, then matchsticks.


13. Remove from the oven. Remove foil and garnish each with the morels and several tablespoons of the morel-truffle sauce. Garnish with truffle matchsticks. Serve hot.


TIPS: To infuse eggs with truffle aroma and flavor, store a whole fresh truffle and eggs (in their shells) in an airtight container in the refrigerator for at least two days and up to a week.


ALL PURPOSE TRUFFLE-MOREL CREAM SAUCE: 
Be sure to save the grit-free liquid reserved from plumping the dried morels.


1 cup morel soaking liquid
1/2 cup truffle juice (from can)
1 cup heavy cream


1. In a large sauce pan, reduce the mushroom liquid uncovered over high heat by half, about 10 minutes


2. Add the truffle juice and cream to the saucepan. Reduce, uncovered over high heat by half. About 15 minutes.


3. pour through a fine seive into a bowl. Store in airtight container for up to three days or in the freezer for up to 6 months.  Reheat at serving time.





The Food52 Cookbook

The Food52 Cookbook140 Winning Recipes From Exceptional Home Cooks
by Amanda Hesser & Merrill Stubbs
(published by Harper Collins/Morrow Cookbooks)

The cookbook is extremely user-friendly and contains a collection of recipes from Food52's website. If you have never checked it out, you should. Home cooks submit recipes which followers make and vote on each week. The 52 weeks of winners are included in this nicely illustrated cookbook. The recipes are accessible and family-friendly. My only complaint is with the formatting of the book. I find many of the recipes to be awkwardly printed between two pages. Even though each recipe intro offers fun insight, having to flip the page at weird points in the recipe kind of annoys me. (So does unnecessary white space). If a recipe must be printed on multiple pages, I prefer they be the facing pages. Place the photos at the beginning or end of the recipe so the text (recipe) flows without having to turn a page. Regardless, we all know we should read the recipe before preparing it, so this isn't a huge deal- just a personal preference. Food52 is otherwise a well-edited, heavily-illustrated cook book with recipes that are uncomplicated, yet creative and memorable.

SMOKY FRIED CHICKPEAS
The Smoky Fried Chickpeas tossed with paprika, garlic & lemon zest were a hit (even with the kids!!) at our Thanksgiving brunch, but they went away so fast, I didn't have a chance to take a picture. This photo is from Food 52's Website and this is a link to Food 52's slideshow by Sarah Shatz.

100609f_0781
Photo by: Sarah Shatz

Serves enough for 4

1 cup Olive Oil
1 tablespoon lemon zest, strips
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 coarse salt to taste
4 pieces garlic, sliced
  1. Drain Chickpeas and set on paper towels over a colander to dry throughly (can be done 1 day in advance).
  2. Heat oil in large pan (preferably cast iron) to 355 or until oil makes bubbles around 1 chickpea.
  3. add lemon zest, thyme sprig, chickpeas in batches so pan doesn't crowd fry about 5 minutes until crunchy color & changes.
  4. remove from oil, drain well over colander/sieve, add garlic, fry till golden.
  5. Toss with smoked paprika & salt, add more if necessary..serve warm.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Pigging out in Cleveland

I have been wanting to go to the Greenhouse Tavern for quite some time now. Attending a Browns game with my husband seemed an opportune time. After a Saturday morning of Ruhlman & Ramen with Genevieve, I headed to the hotel to wait for Kevin while digging into my new cookbooks. While the primary goal for eating at Greenhouse Tavern was to 'research' it as part of a Weekend Getaway to Cleveland in the 3rd edition of my Insiders' Guide to Columbus, I am also putting together a culinary 'soil-to-table' Wanderlust Tour. GT fits the bill. 
Kevin turned up a few hours later for round two of pigging out. And I do not use the cliche 'pigging out' lightly, as Chef Jonathan Sawyer is best known for all things porcine. Even Michael Ruhlman said "have the pig"... I had no idea what that meant until we were seated and I saw a well picked-over pig head on the neighboring table. Not for me, but there was plenty of other pork on the menu. Needless to say, I was excited for this culinary experience. 
Chef Sawyer is known for his masterful use of locally sourced products and farm-to-fork philosophy. Also, Greenhouse Tavern is Ohio's first (and I believe only) certified Green Restaurant.  It was named Bon Appétit Magazine's Top Ten Restaurants in America and Chef Sawyer named Food & Wine Magazine's Best New Chef in 2010. The restaurant's ambiance is easy and warm. In keeping with the green theme, much of the decor uses recycled products, including the hanging lights which are made of bicycle wheels. The biggest impact is the mouth-watering aroma that punches you in the face as soon as you walk through the door. 


GT Pinot Noir, 2007
First line of business... wine. The GT's house Oregon Pinot Noir seemed a light, friendly choice for the array of dishes to come for the next 3 hours.  We opted for the Chef's Menu, which allows a choice of starter, second course, entree, and side dish. And at $44 is a great value. Little did we know Chef would send out a few additional items from each category. And so the  onslaught of food began...
Foie Gras Steamed Clams
I suppose Chef thought we were playing it safe when I ordered Foie Gras Steamed Clams (w/ butter, red onion brûlée, late harvest viognier vinegar & grilled bread) and Kevin ordered Pan Fried Padron Peppers. I have been on a bit of a shellfish odyssey lately and these clams were awesome. Silky, earthy. We sopped up every drop of broth with crusty bread. Still, he sent out plates of Crispy Hominy (w/ pork skin cracklins, pickled red onion & lime juice) and Devils on Horse Back (w/ Dee-Jay’s bacon wrapped dates, almonds, bitter chocolate & roasted fresno pepper). Each showcasing powerful flavors and textures.  
The Crispy Hominy was my favorite of the starters. 
Kevin discovered he likes dates. Devils on Horseback.
Now for the Greenhouse Tavern Crispy Chicken Wings Confit which claim supremacy over their sister-restaurants. Mind you, Kevin had not tasted the Noodlecat (Chef Sawyer's casual ramen noodle restaurant) miso bbq wings that G & I had for lunch. To my mind, the Noodlecat wings reign supreme only because I prefer saucy wings. Still, the GT chicken was exceptional and I understand the general consensus of love. 
Crispy Chicken Wings Confit w/ roasted jalapeño, lemon juice, scallions & garlic
While waiting for the entrees, we were given a platter of Pommes Frites, which were pretty darn good. Not greasy, not too crispy, and extremely aromatic with herbs and garlic tucked throughout the fries.
Aromatic Pommes Frites w/ raw garlic, rosemary & aioli
We were torn between several entrees. Kevin ordered the Pan-Fried Pork Chop Saltimbocca-- we HAD to have pig and it lived up to the Pork King's reputation. Succulent meat over pureed potatoes and red-eye gravy (which contains a shot of espresso). How can you go wrong with pork wrapped in pork (ham)?
Pan-Fried Pork Chop Saltimbocca
I left my selection to the chef. The 40 Clove Heirloom Garlic Roasted Half Chicken was strongly recommended. I had no idea what we were in store for when the server came to our table 45 minutes later with the pièce de résistance... a chicken wrapped in brioche and dramatically flayed open to reveal the insides all neatly chopped and cooked with herbs-n-such. I was only half-joking when suggeting they try this with a turkey for Thanksgiving. There are no words for how much food came to our table. I kept apologizing for not being able to eat it all...  
40 Clove Heirloom Garlic Roasted Half Chicken
40 Clove Heirloom Garlic Roasted Half Chicken
Nearly three hours and 8 or 9 courses later... after lively conversations with the owners, sous chef and wine guy... it was insisted we have dessert. We strategically ordered the smallest sized dessert, which was the Buttered Popcorn Pot de Creme. Figured we could muster down a piece or two of grown-up popcorn... but again, Chef called our bluff. Along with the caramel and sea salt covered popcorn came a huge slab of  Dobos Torte-- a glorious 7-layer vanilla cake w/ chocolate butter cream, meringue & citrus. Obviously, there was a little room left, because we managed to eat most of it. Heavenly cake. 
Dobos Torte
When our consumption had finally reached its capacity, we were taken on a tour of the lively kitchen, which contains several tables and a small bar for guests to enjoy the action (on a first-come, first-serve basis). Then we paraded up to the rooftop bar overlooking the Fourth Street entertaiment district (note: Michael Symon's Lola - the little round sign to the right). We purchased a few gift cards and bottles of wine, hoping to share the Greenhouse tavern experience with friends. After consuming a mountain of food, we welcomed the 3-block walk back to the hotel. I am grateful we Ohioans have access to high-quality food from such a creative chef; one who respects his ingredients and offers his customers a truly meaningful culinary experience. My only regret? Not having two stomachs!


We had a few hours to kill on Sunday morning, but given we ate until 11 PM on Saturday night, breakfast was not on the radar... until we wandered into brunch at the Ritz. I more or less went from food coma to food coma on this little getaway. 


Now THIS is my kind of tail-gating :-)

The Bloody Mary buffet allows you mix in your own sauces and other accountrements... 

You know you're in Cleveland when.... even the Ritz serves 'Pittsburgh Sucks Hot Sauce'. It was quite good.


Just shaking my head... classy.

And then there was football. The Browns won. 



Saturday, November 5, 2011

Ruhlman & Ramen

Me, Michael & Genevieve
A few weeks ago, Genevieve and I shotgunned it to Cleveland (well, rural suburban Cleveland) to hear our hunky kitchen god, Michael Ruhlman  speak about his book Soul of a Chef: Journey Toward Perfection. If you aren't familiar with him, you may be with one of his many stunning cookbooks (Bouchon, Ad Hoc, French Laundry). Aside from being a prolific food writer, you might also recognize Michael as an occasional Iron Chef Judge.  Either way, we arrived bearing offerings from Columbus. Genevieve bought for him an autumnal variety pack of macarons from Pistacia Vera, while I bestowed upon him a bottle of honey wine from Brothers Drake Mead. The gods were pleased.
Neither of us expected such an intimate and inspiring experience. There were no more than 15 people gathered in the Columbiana Library's meeting room. We listened to Michael discuss his journey into food writing, his experiences at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America, and the inspiration behind Soul of a Chef, which is not his latest book, but one of the more introspective and thoughtful. As a writer, I related to his stories: the desire to write from an early age; kicking down doors to make things happen; recognizing and jumping on opportunity; some rejection; lots of perseverance. 
What I appreciate most is how speaks of writing as a craft... a skill that that needs to be honed and developed- comparing it to cooking. I recall reading an interview with him in the spring issue of Edible Columbus (page 13) where he commented that "writing becomes a shadow urge of cooking" - forever forging in my mind the two acts of creation. The timing of that article was interesting because I had just begun my first "proper" food blogging gig- testing recipes from Patricia Wells's new cookbook and blogging about them. Michael Ruhlman's bit of advice about food blogging? "Don't be boring!" which ended up the title of one of my posts. He practices what he preaches... Michael's presentation was personal, engaging, and insightful for both writers and cooks. Genevieve and I each left with signed copies of his latest book, Ruhlman's Twenty and, to my giggly surprise, he gave me a copy of The Making of a Chef after learning I had not yet read it. (Genevieve told him him she hasn't read Charcuterie, but he chuckled saying that was too expensive to give away. Valiant effort though, G.) Overall, we both left feeling inspired to write and to cook-- and ready for lunch!

  

After a quick lap through the West Side Market, we went in search of lunch, but not before snapping pictures of mouthwatering pastries and breads. Of course, my eye went immediately to the sign that read "monk"...


Next stop--- NOODLECAT! A playful raman noodle concept by Chef Jonathan Sawyer of Cleveland's extraordinary Greenhouse Tavern. The menu features a variety of noodle bowls, ranging from "Old School Japanese to Modern Tokyo to Mash-up Style." The scratchmade noodles come topped with local grown meat and vegetables in fragrant broths. We studied the menu over a round of libations- sake and vino.

We started with the Tsukemono Pickle Sampler, which was rather zingy. The beans were spicy and the pickled quail egg... well... simply put, it was a delicious bite. Who knew? Off to a good start.

It was suggested we order the wings, which we heard were to die for. Genevieve and I agreed on Miso BBQ Twice Cooked Crispy Chicken Wings- and they lived up to the hype. The skin had a slightly crispy texture and the meat fell off the bones. Kevin and I were having dinner at the Greenhouse Tavern (which likewise claim the best wings) that evening, so the taste test was on... I thought it would be difficult to top Noodlecat wings, but went to Greenhouse Tavern with an open mind. 

Our salads were creative and quite large. My Choy’n Soi Salad (w/ bok choy, tatsoi, soy braised egg, sunflower seeds, whipped tofu & Japanese citrus dressing) was beautiful. The little bits of tofu whipped into the dressing stood out unexpectedly and I hope to incorporate this detail into my own Asian dressings. G's Kim Chee Salad (w/ Napa cabbage, sweet pureed kim chee, cashews, peanuts & pickled melon) had quite the kick, and the pickled melon was a tasty addition.
Choy’n Soi Salad (front) & Kim Chee Salad

When it came to the main course, my eye kept going to the Ohio Beef Brisket and Matzo Ramen “Yudaya-Jin” (w/ matzo ball, brisket, chicken broth dashi, carrot & dill ) so I ordered it. Boy, this dish did not disappoint. The brisket was tender, the broth flavorful, and the huge matzo ball helped sop it all up. Not one to pass up pork belly, Genevieve ordered the special. A fine choice knowing Chef Sawyer's specialty is pig in all it's glorious forms.
Beef Brisket Ramen (front) & Pork Belly Ramen

The restaurant's ambiance was minimalist, industrial and whimsical; the walls covered with comic book murals depicting Super Noodlecat rescuing the world from processed food. Staying true to his food philosophy, Chef Sawyer sources as many ingredients as possible locally- including the booze. While eating at the bar, we spotted Columbus-made Watershed vodka and gin, and also learned it was Cleveland Beer Week from our lovely bartender, Liz. A super friendly gal who gave us the scoop on the friendly chicken wing rivalry with GT.


As of November, Noodlecat will be open seven days a week. I can't wait to treat Kevin to a birthday lunch here, especially knowing how much he enjoyed the Greenhouse Tavern (blog to come). There is no doubt he will like Noodlecat as much as we did, but I will still beg the question-- are Noodlecat's chicken wings the best? Or, are GT's? I have my favorite...

To use a Noodlecat term, it was all totally SLURPALICIOUS!