This Ain't Your Mama's English Cottage Pie

Sizzling Skillets & Other One Pot Wonders, by Emeril Lagasse

Photo: Catherine Murray/Photo Kitchen

Photo: Catherine Murray/Photo Kitchen

Having grown up with five kids in our family, shepherd's pie was a dinner staple. So much so, I refused to eat the stuff throughout most of my twenties. It wasn't until I moved to England that I reacquainted myself with the whole concept of 'pie.' Meat pie. Kidney pie. Shepherd's pie... Pie and I are now quite friendly. When Emeril's cookbook arrived, English Cottage Pie was one of the first recipes to catch my eye. It got stickie-noted...  


After studying the recipe, I became intrigued. This ain't my mama's pie... in fact, we NEVER had shepherd's pie. Lamb, which is the traditional protein used, was not part of our family diet. My mother always used beef, so for all those years (decades) we were eating COTTAGE pie. Another thing about the recipe that raised a quizzical eyebrow, was the sheer number of ingredients. Almost 25, including the herbs and spices. Of course, when one thinks of Emeril Lagasse, one thinks 'flavor.'  Flavor is present throughout this entire cookbook- and while many of the flavor profiles nod toward the south (as one might expect), I would say about 2/3 of the flavor profiles are unexpected, drawing on spicy world cuisines. And spicy is usually not a word found in the same sentence as "English Cottage Pie". Granted, this is probably the least spicy dish I've made thus far, but the root vegetables (parsnip & turnips) and white pepper gave the final dish a subtle kick. Speaking of vegetables, I loved the combination used in this dish. Autumn and root vegetables go hand in hand, so I'm excited to have another use for them outside of the usual roasting. 

Ancient potato ricer does the trick

Aside from the bazillion ingredients and inclusion of unexpected vegetables, another aspect of this recipe that seemed foreign (to my mind) is the addition of autumnal spices and cheese directly to the potatoes, which call for ricing... I have a ricer!  {NOTE: The newer version of this potato ricer, which I bought about 10 years ago at William Sonoma is shaped differently, but turns out the same fluffy potatoes}. I like super smooth potatoes, so the ricer is consistent for this.

Photo: Catherine Murray/Photo Kitchen

I also chose to replace ground beef (called for in the recipe) with ground turkey. Gotta keep the ol' ticker healthy... slowly, each of the individual components were introduced into the turkey mixture and eventually transferred into the baker (hence, One-Pot Wonder). We topped it with a layer of potatoes (and a little more for good measure) and popped it into the oven for a bit.  At this point in the process, everything is cooked. The oven time is meant to simmer all the flavors together and crisp up the potatoes.With the extra spuds, it took a little longer to brown., but once the cheese started bubbling, it was go time. 

Photo: Catherine Murray/Photo Kitchen

This is not a "set it and forget it" type of one-pot. It requires cooking and building the recipe in a certain order. I've come to appreciate this about the Sizzling Skillets cookbook. There is a reason Emeril has us combining spices and mixing ingredients in a specific order. The flavors build and it's obvious at the outcome. I'm not one for following recipes closely, but promised myself I would follow this one explicitly- partly out of curiosity, but mostly because I want to be able to speak to the outcome of the recipe (which can't happen if you cut corners)-- and justify (or not) the labor intensive prepping and pile of dishes in the sink. Totally worth it! 

Photo: Catherine Murray/Photo Kitchen

NOW, I turn my attention to the photographer who was parked in my kitchen for three hours, documenting two recipes start to finish. Catherine Murray, friend and foodie photog and owner of Photo Kitchen, was able to capture shots that I could never manage- especially since both of my hands were perpetually occupied with knives, spatulas and other kitchen gadgets. Catherine got in on the blogging action too, so you can read her take on things from behind the lens at her blog: Freshly Baked by Photo Kitchen. 

Photo: Catherine Murray/Photo Kitchen

As a vegetarian, this was not a dish Catherine was interested in tasting (although I did notice she sneaked a bit of the potatoes and said they tasted delish). She was however, eating up the Cottage Pie with her camera. And washing it down with a glass of wine... 
When it came time to dig in, my mouth was watering. The potatoes had that perfect crusty snap as the fork cut though. I could taste the hints of nutmeg. The meat, the vegetables, and the bit of sauce spilling out from beneath its potato blanket was amazing. When all was said and done, this was the best cottage pie I have ever tasted. Seriously. Granted, I rarely order something like this when we go out to eat, but if I knew such a delicious, rib-sticking slice of pie would turn up on my plate, I'd be all over it. 


Check out other test recipes from Emeril's cookbook Sizzling Skillets and Other One-Pot Wonders (now on sale) on the publisher's blog & The Secret Ingredient's Facebook Page. 

One Pot Wonder Collaboration with Catherine Murray of PhotoKitchen

I am fortunate enough to have become friends with an extremely talented and creative photographer named Catherine Murray. She is one of the staff photographers for Edible Columbus and her pictures make us hungry. See for yourself...  Catherine's Columbus-based company, Photo Kitchen offers us eye-popping, mouth-watering images of all things edible- total food porn if you ask me. And I'm alright with it.  

When I was selected to undertake this cookbook blogging challenge for Emeril Lagasse's soon-to-be-released, Sizzling Skillets and Other One Pot Wonders, I immediately thought of Catherine's dazzling food pictures and asked if she would like to collaborate with me to cook and photograph a few recipes for both of our blogs. It's a fun experience (as I assured her after having done this once before for Patricia Wells's Salad as a Meal cookbook release). The publisher, Harper Collins, was A-OK with this plan and sent her a copy of the cook book as well.   

As you will see in Catherine's first post about making Gigante Bean Soup with Arugula Pesto -- it is an extremely photogenic recipe! Not to mention delicious. She not only captures the magnificent colors of beautiful ingredients, but includes thoughtful tidbits about her experience with the recipe. 

Catherine and I are undertaking a few recipes tomorrow... so sit tight for pretty pictures of Butternut Squash and Chickpea Tagine and English Cottage Pie .... If you want to see more foodie eye candy, check out Catherine Murray's blog... Freshly Baked. PS... She does weddings too.

Tagine of Chicken with Lemon & Olives

The tagine is my favorite cooking vessel of all time! The one in this picture was purchased about 7 or 8 years ago at Sur la Table after breaking my original tagine that came direct from Morocco... a sad day when it broke, but I learned a lesson the hard way. You must let the tagine warm up over low heat before adding your ingredients- and I stress low heat. My first tagine cracked & ultimately shattered after cranking up the gas too high.

Also, you may find tagine-shaped vessels made in stainless steel (All-Clad sells beautiful tagines in various colors) and ceramic (which are primarily decorative and used for serving, rather than cooking), but I prefer the traditional clay type, because the whole point of using a terra cotta tagine is to allow (over time) the spices & flavors to absorb into the clay, which in turns gives back to future dishes in the most subtle of ways. Tagines also are a most fragrant way to slow cook food, so I was rather excited to see a whole section of tagine recipes in Emeril's Sizzling Skillets and Other One-Pot Wonders. As a side note, nearly all the recipes I have ever made in my tagine are beefy North African- meaning heavy on the tumeric, cumin and cinnamon and usually creating a slightly darker sauce. This recipe- Chicken with Preserved Lemons and Cerignola Olives- was surprisingly light and lemony. The broth was clearer than I am used to, but none the less delicious. I did not however, use preserved lemons, nor the specified olives. Still, with regular lemons and mild green olives, the brightness of the recipes showed through. Served over cous cous and voila! A lovely (and unexpected) Mediterranean-style tagine.

Portuguese Pork and Clams

Portuguese Pork and Clams

During this first week of blogging my husband and I (who are from Columbus, Ohio) are vacationing on Cape Cod. Having received Emeril’s cookbook in advance, I was very excited to learn it has a few recipes that we are able to make using local products, while near the coast.

What some people may not be aware of is the lower Cape (near Provincetown) is well known for its Portuguese fishing heritage, so the recipe for Portuguese Pork and Clams instantly leaped out at me.  Seemingly appropriate for our location.

Provincetown has a 1,000 year history of European and Scandinavian fisherman working the Atlantic waters between Europe and the east coast of America and Canada. In fact, cod is the official food of Portugal.  You’ll find Portuguese bakeries and restaurants in P’town, as well as a massive black and white photo-memorial to the wives of Portuguese fishermen on the side of a pier. Not to mention, my maternal grandmother was part Portuguese. Let’s just say I connected with this recipe.

So with crock pot in tow, we went on a mission to find the ingredients. Unfortunately, substitution began immediately as we could not muster up Boston butt pork from any of the nearby shops. But we found a fatty enough cut that would work well for slow cooking and compliment the briny clams. Done. As for the clams, I had every intention of digging them up myself but the reality of a shellfish license and specific fishing days drove us to a small fish market in Dennis-- which one can not argue with when it comes to fresh seafood. The clams were gorgeous and delicious!

With pork, clams and paprika mix in hand, we hunkered down at our place for dinner (Kevin was busy watching football, while I chopped and diced). With patio doors open and fresh sea air billowing through the curtains, we let the crock pot work its magic while sipping wine and discussing the outcome of this new cookbook challenge.  In the end (4 hours later), the meal was glorious. The sauce had some heat as I went a little heavy handed on the cayenne- but overall, it was fantastic! The clams steamed open after about an hour of being submerged in the pork mixture and the crusty Italian bread sopped up the spicy sauce beautifully.

Even though we have had some amazing meals this past week, we discussed how this meal again (and the proper cut of meat) will make it into our regular repertoire of dishes. It ostly requires letting the ingredients simmer and develop flavor. Portuguese Pork and Clams is a truly remarkable recipe and, despite being in landlocked Columbus, I think we can easily find Boston butt pork and Boston-harvested clams (from Frank’s seafood!) to make an even better round two.

Stay tuned for the redux…

Emeril's Cajun Shrimp Stew

This was the first recipe I made from Emeril's cookbook, Sizzling Skillets and Other One-Pot Wonders and it turned out to be much more aromatic and hearty than expected. I used medium frozen shrimp from a local market, but they were super clean, which is mostly what matters as I hate handling shrimp (but I sure love eating it). I cut all the herbs from my garden and used the last few cloves of garlic, also from our back yard. The Spanish saffron, which came from Bhutan (of all places) via a good friend, lent the stew a somewhat Paella-esque fragrance.

The soup base turned out particularly good, and there ended up being an excess of it. So, I shared some of the stock with my sister who her version of shrimp stew a few days later-- which, she said turned out delicious. I loved this recipe and plan to make it again in the near future-- and I might even attempt to turn it into a type of chili!! (Genevieve, take note for upcoming Chili Competition!!)




Cajun Shrimp Stew

This comforting, simple stew is a Cajun dish that many home cooks in Louisiana enjoy, especially during the Lenten season. It is easy to make and feeds a bunch. The trick is getting the roux to the right color . . . about a notch darker than peanut butter should do the trick. A homemade shrimp stock makes all the difference in the world. Make sure to add the shrimp just before serving so that they stay nice and tender. Some families boil eggs in their shrimp stew (as it simmers) to make the dish even heartier.

1 cup vegetable oil

1 ½ cups all-purpose flour

2 ½ cups finely chopped onion

¼ cup minced garlic (about 12 cloves)

10 cups Rich Shrimp Stock (page 173)

2 bay leaves

1 ¼ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

¾ teaspoon cayenne

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves

1 ½ tablespoons kosher salt

3 large baking potatoes (2 ½ to 3 pounds), peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 pounds small or medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

¼ cup chopped green onion, green part only

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves

Steamed long-grain white rice, for serving

1. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat and, when hot, add the flour. Whisk to combine and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until a medium roux is formed (it should look a bit darker than peanut butter), about 10 minutes. (If the roux begins to brown too quickly, reduce the heat to medium or medium-low and take your time—it is important that the roux not be burned at all or the stew will have a bitter taste.) As soon as the roux is the right color, add the chopped onion and cook until soft, stirring occasionally, 4 to 6 minutes.

Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the stock, little by little, and bring the sauce to a gentle boil. Add the bay leaves, black pepper, cayenne, thyme, and 4 teaspoons of the salt and reduce the heat so that the sauce just simmers. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the floury taste is gone, 30 to 45 minutes.

2. Add the potatoes and continue to cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are very tender and the sauce is thick and flavorful, 30 to 40 minutes longer. (Add a bit of water or chicken broth to thin the gravy should the stew get too thick during the cook time. The sauce is meant to be thick and rich but not pasty.)

3. Toss the shrimp with the remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Stir the shrimp, green onion, and parsley into the stew and continue to cook until the shrimp are just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Remove the bay leaves. Serve the stew in shallow bowls over hot white rice.

6 to 8 servings

Deviled Eggs for Breakfast, by Saveur

Deviled Eggs for Breakfast

by Saveur

I've never really been a fan of breakfast foods. I find that people who are breakfast-eaters absolutely cannot fathom the possibility that I don't share their enthusiasm for Belgian waffles, veggie omelets, bowls of cereal, and stacks of flapjacks. Over the years I've tried to isolate what drives my distaste for American breakfast (a maple aversion? Carb avoidance?), but I can't seem to find one single thread. It's just not the meal for me. 

This morning, I faced the enemy at a breakfast thrown by W Hotels at which Jack Yoss, chef de cuisine at the brand's Bali property, was in charge of the menu. At most breakfast events, I find myself facing down a continental spread that couldn't be less exciting: leaden scones, gooey buns, listless fruit salad. But for this party, Yoss went with a concept seemingly tailor-made for me: breakfast canapés. For the traditional breakfast-eaters, there were mini frittatas and single squares of waffle filled with peach compote. For me, there was an entry point into luxury breakfast heaven: bite-size banh mi, cups of truffle-spiked congee, and mugs of briny, creamy oyster bisque. And then I saw the deviled eggs, and I realized I'd found the answer.

It's not that I don't like breakfast eggs — faced with no other choice, they're the subcategory of morning food I'm most likely to enjoy — but I love deviled eggs. The contrast of a creamy, savory yolk mixture against the cool neutrality of the white hits me in exactly the right way. As a breakfast food, they're ideal: they're surprisingly easy to make for one (just keep a baggie of yolk mixture in the fridge, the halved whites in a separate container, and fill the eggs to order), and they won't provoke the outraged "How can you eat that?!" reaction that I get from the breakfast-food partisans when I start my day with spaghetti in red sauce or leftover chicken curry. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if some of the die-harders drop their waffle allegiance and ask me for a bite.

Quiessence at The Farm at South Mountain, Phoenix

The Farm at South Mountain on the southern fringes of Phoenix houses my all-time favorite restaurant (collection of three, actually). Blink and you might drive right past the entrance. A daily-evolving menu dictated by local produce, house-made pastas, and a well-edited domestic wine and cheese menu round out the experience. 

This excerpt from an Eat Beats column sums it up.

Quiessence is the best restaurant in Phoenix. Those are fighting words, I know, and by them, I don’t mean any disrespect to the Valley’s acknowledged giants, such as Pizzeria 

Bianco (which we all know has the best pizza in the world) or Kai at 

the Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort, which has a bigger budget 

than a humble restaurant on The Farm at South Mountain could 

ever dream of. But Chef Gregory LaPrad, who took the reins at 

Quiessence, is quietly turning out food that would shine 

in any restaurant market in North America. If I had to eat at one 

Valley restaurant for the rest of my life, this would be it.

Quiessence is in a quirky historic farmhouse at the end of the 

lane at The Farm at South Mountain, concealed behind a walled 

garden and accessed by a crooked flagstone path. Seating is on a 

garden patio, in a cheerful solarium, or in a cozy fireplace room (and 

there’s usually a fire burning this time of year). That alone makes it 

unique in Phoenix, where, if a restaurant is not in a strip mall, it’s 

probably in a resort. More to the point from the kitchen’s perspective, it’s also within throwing distance of Maya’s at The Farm, a working garden that supplies much of the extraordinary produce for the 

restaurant’s constantly changing menu. It is a privilege that would 

turn most chefs pesto-green with envy, and LaPrad knows how to 

take advantage of it.

Handcrafted American Cuisine

Tradition and seasonality inspire Quiessence’s contemporary American farm cuisine made from domestic ingredients featuring Arizona’s finest farmers, herdsmen, and artisans. Our dinner menu proudly highlights the local market’s availability, offering a true ‘daily menu’ experience. Nestled in the historic Farm at South Mountain property in Phoenix, Quiessence welcomes guests to escape the city and savor nature’s bounty with handcrafted seasonal dishes for a truly ‘soulful & satisfying’ dining experience.

Its laundry list of accolades (including being ranked among America's most romantic restaurants) is not surprising:

"Four Diamonds" - AAA 2011

"Best Contemporary American Restaurant" -2010 Best of Phoenix New Times

"#1 Contemporary American Restaurant" - '09, '08 Ranking AZ

"America's Most Romantic Restaurants" -February 2011 Travel and Leisure Magazine

"Best Seasonal Cuisine" - '09, '08 Phoenix New Times

"Top-3 Romantic Restaurant" -'09 Arizona Republic

"27, 25, 25" -'09 Zagat Guide

"Top-5 Best Patio Dining" -'09 Arizona Republic

"One of the best wine lists in the Southwest" -'09 Bloomberg

"Food & Wine's Go-To List" -'08 Food & Wine Magazine

"The Best Restaurant in Phoenix" -'07 Phoenix Magazine

Thus Proving the Tuna’s Habitat Is Not a Can

By the NY Times

Say you had a can of tuna, an onion and some cooked white beans. A splash of olive oil, a little red wine vinegar, and couple of basil leaves. Maybe some garlic. Salt, pepper. Sounds good, yes? 

But suppose, in the best of all possible worlds, you had a fillet of fresh albacore and a few pounds of new-crop shelling beans, both of which are in season now. You could make a from-scratch, slow-food version of the same dish. It would require a little time. The reward, though, would be a dish of succulent oil-bathed fish and tender beans that far surpasses the quick one.

Albacore, often considered a lesser tuna, is a treat and easy to prepare at home. It is also abundant, with healthy fisheries all along the Pacific Coast as well as parts of the Atlantic. The best albacore comes from small boats that take smaller fish: tastier, sweeter and lower in mercury. 

Though it can be delicious pan-seared on the rare side, as with a slice of fresh yellowfin, soft-fleshed albacore is ideal for braising in olive oil. Seasoned simply with a little fennel seed, red pepper and rosemary, then baked slowly, it can become the most delightful salad or sandwich or pasta. It tastes best the next day and keeps beautifully for a week in the fridge. Brought to room temp in its oily cooking juices, it can be enjoyed as is, or embellished with a bright, crisp red-pepper relish.

Most Southern cooks know about fresh shelling beans, like butter beans and black-eyed peas. Farm stands throughout the Southeast always have them at this time of year, and their fans are legion. At Northern markets, especially in Italian neighborhoods, you’ll find fresh borlotti (also called cranberry beans for their vivid red pods) and cannellini beans.

They are truly heavenly, with a very particular divine creaminess. Once shucked from their pods, most varieties take only 30 minutes or so to cook. Cover the beans with water; add a sliced onion, a garlic clove, a rosemary sprig and salt, then simmer very gently. Serve them warm, drizzled with good olive oil, or cool, for this exceptional slow-cooked albacore salad.

Soupe au Pistou, Saveur Magazine

Soupe au Pistou (Provençal Vegetable Soup with Pistou)

Pistou, the Provençal cousin of pesto, is stirred into this summer vegetable soup just before serving. This recipe first appeared in SAVEUR issue #140, along with Laura Schenone's story Glorious Pesto.

SERVES 8–10

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE PISTOU:
4 cups packed basil
1 cup grated parmesan
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 plum tomato, cored

FOR THE SOUP:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 oz. pancetta, minced
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
1/2 medium zucchini, chopped
1/4 head Savoy cabbage, cored and thinly shredded
8 cups chicken stock
7 whole, peeled canned tomatoes, chopped
1/3 cup broken dried spaghetti
1 15-oz. can cannelini beans
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Make the pistou: Process basil, parmesan, oil, salt, garlic, and tomato in a food processor until finely ground. Season with salt and pepper, and set aside.

2. Heat oil in a 6-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat; add pancetta and cook, stirring often, until fat has rendered, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, carrots, celery, and onions, reduce heat to medium; cook, covered and stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender, 12–15 minutes. Add zucchini and cabbage; cook, covered, until wilted, 3–5 minutes. Add stock and tomatoes, and bring to a boil. Add pasta and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. Mash half the beans with a fork; add to soup along with whole beans—cook until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into bowls; serve with pistou dolloped on top.

To make this recipe vegetarian: omit the pancetta and substitute vegetable stock for the chicken stock. 

Pairing Note: L'Esprit de Sainte Marguerite 2010 ($18), a grenache-syrah rosé from Côtes de Provence, has a dry finish that pairs well with this summer soup.